Guest post from Michael Dresner, CEO of Peppercom’s Brand² Squared Licensing Division
Lululemon, by so many accounts, is a brand success perhaps rivaled only by the iPod over the past decade. It entered a saturated category (fitness apparel) with an archaic cost-structure (traditional retail) charging super-premium prices (groove pants for $98) targeting consumers with declining discretionary income (North American female heads of household). Eight-years-old and the brand is generating $350 million annually with 113 store locations and a +6% growth rate while other specialty retailers fade into obsolescence. But, fate can turn rapidly. Lululemon has developed an odd brand partnership that may create demise faster than success.
The business model is so unique, and in retrospect, obvious. Instead of being an expensive health club attracting physically fit regulars while also hawking low-cost merchandise, Lululemon establishes “ambassadors,” aka Luluheads in each market - who promote a retailer that hawks high-priced, fashion forward fitness apparel while charging nothing for its classes. Buy the clothes, take a free yoga class, look great, come back for another class, befriend the Luluheads, buy more clothes. An average health club costs about $75.00 in monthly dues. Lululemon may not get $900 in annual sales from every customer – but in a lot of cases I bet it comes close. Plus, the environment of the store makes consumers feel like they’re part of something bigger. Part of a lifestyle of the moment, a statement that is at once aspirational and attainable, a brand relationship that for consumers nationwide justifies a substantive premium vis a vis similar goods sold elsewhere. This dynamic is nothing new – Ralph Lauren, Nike, Apple, and Starbucks have spent decades creating brand auras that transformed products they did not invent.
The passion of Lululemon’s founder, Chip Wilson, unquestionably guides success. A staunch advocate of self-improvement, he sees yoga as one of the many tools available to develop more enriching lives. He encourages his staff to espouse the same values. Can’t argue with that – the infusion of his passion into employees is among the most scalable assets he has. Here’s where it goes too far: Lululemon staff are given complimentary workshops to Landmark, and are “encouraged” to attend.
If you don’t know Landmark, it used to be called The Forum. And if you don’t know The Forum, it used to be called EST. Yep – that EST. The EST founded by “Dr.” Werner Erhard (born John Rosenberg, incidentally, with a former career as an encyclopedia salesman). Erhard offered coursework in human potential. Seminars would last 15-20 hours a day with “agreements” not to eat or visit the bathroom during sessions. To truly evolve, students were encouraged to return, spend more on dues, and bring recruits. Yes, hundreds of thousands of people went through the coursework, yet opponents consistently accused EST of brainwashing and fascism. (Erhard left the U.S. in 1991 following charges of tax evasion and sexual abuse. In absentia, he was ordered by a U.S. court to pay $500,000 in damages for mental injuries). If you ask people about Landmark, too many say “it’s a cult.” Whether or not that’s true is debatable. The point is – why would one brand (Lululemon) with such skyrocketing potential create an alliance with another brand (Landmark) that has such controversial baggage it changes its name repeatedly to escape the past?
Judging from people who have taken Landmark courses (I have declined repeated offers from “graduates” to join them for “free consults”), I’m sure the organization has evolved for the better. And yes, this blog describes an internal program at Lululemon, focused on company employees. But all too frequently as Lululemon is covered in the media, the alliance is raised. Chip Wilson discusses Landmark on YouTube. If you Google the phrase “Lululemon Landmark,” results covering the alliance go on for ten pages. I don’t know if licensing fees are exchanged between the two companies – but this is a brand partnership. The purpose of brand partnerships is to create an economic whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts, through a broader consumer base, additional media platforms, and cross-selling of products and services. I find it hard to believe that the publicly traded Lululemon will benefit economically from this alliance.
If I worked for the Lululemon brand, I would have called Clif Bar, creator of the Luna Bar. The combination seems perfect. Similar consumer, resolving similar need gaps, both convincing people to buy into enriching lifestyles (plus premium-priced goods and services). Like Lululemon, Luna Bar seems to have a cult-like following. But unlike Lululemon, Luna Bar is not cross-marketing with a cult.
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